Two weeks in

It has been about two weeks since we landed in Xiamen. It feels like it has been about a month considering how much we’ve done – set up bank accounts and cell phones, gone through the mandatory medical check (a very clinical ultrasound, blood and urine tests, chest xray, vision test), found an apartment (after looking at too many to count), downloaded an array of Chinese apps essential to navigating daily life, explored our new neighborhood and conquered jet lag. I’d be proud beyond belief if I could say we accomplished all this on our own, but the truth is I’m not sure where we’d be without the support of and handholding by Gabe’s school. Props to anyone who has moved here not knowing the language and managed to settle in. The school has been amazing and we shared in the ups and downs with other new teachers and their families. A bonding experience if there ever was one. Added bonus – Julia has already made some new friends.  

Xiamen is a tropical city surrounded by water. It’s mostly high rises with a spattering of green hills and mountains in the not too far distance. It’s balmy and in the 90s every day, but we are slowly getting accustomed, or that’s what I keep telling myself. It’s a massive island city and we’ve seen about 1% of it. We are on the 26th floor of an apartment building and are immediately surrounded by eight similarly gigantic and overwhelming high rises that back up to a large beautiful park. Below our building are a few small stores (very convenient) and restaurants, including a delicious dumpling spot and DIY hot pot joint – both of which we’ve been to multiple times and will be frequenting every week. There seem to be a lot of kids in our building and around, and also a swimming pool that we can pay to use and a small playground that Julia and I will visit often. 

The broader surrounding neighborhood is called Marco Polo and it caters to expats. It has a good mix of western/international and Chinese restaurants and stores. We’ve eaten at Mexican, Spanish, Vietnamese, Japanese, and Chinese restaurants. I love how you can turn down one street to find street vendors selling produce, seafood and meat and the next to find international grocery stores and a yoga/fitness gym. It has less of that gentrified feel you get in most large US cities – that’s my take anyway, knowing very little about the city and people. The smaller side streets have large sidewalks lined with trees and it’s a clean area. We are a 15 minute walk to Yundang Lake – a manmade lake with a walking path and lined with fishermen in the mornings, and my eventual new jogging route.

Noteworthy surprises and a few things that will take some getting used to…

The constant attention given to Julia – to say Julia, with her light hair and curls, is popular is an understatement. Everywhere we go she is adored. People play with her, make noises at her, pick her up, take photos and hurry to protect her if she gets too close to the edge of the sidewalk or an escalator. It is good natured and so far we’ve all taken it quite well, though Gabe and I joke that she may develop a complex with all the attention. 

How nice and helpful people are – maybe it’s because we have cute Julia in tow, but most everyone we’ve interacted with, whether it’s at the bank, in restaurants or stores, or on the street, has been friendly and helpful. A couple examples: the host at the hotel restaurant plating my food at the buffet because I was carrying Julia, the store clerk below our apartment giving Julia free grapes every time we pass through, and the bank tellers patiently going back and forth with me on a translator app, while their colleagues essentially babysat Julia. Ok, maybe it is Julia…

The crowds  – Sunday I ventured to Walmart. Now I’m not a fan of big box stores to begin with, but add the crazy crowds, attempts to decipher Chinese labels, stares, the heat and transporting purchases via Didi (Chinese Uber), well let’s just say I wasn’t particularly happy or happy to be in China

The spitting – I had read spitting is common and I’ve noticed it a few times.  

The plastic – everything is packaged and then packaged again. Oh the waste!

The inability to really truly know what you are consuming or how your meat has been raised or your produce grown. This is a tough one.

The language barrier – it’s a challenge and very few people speak any English. Further incentive to take some Mandarin lessons. 

Live fish (and frogs!) In the grocery store – Julia is a big fan

Looking forward to getting more settled in our place and exploring the city. We are headed to a pool party this weekend with Gabe’s coworkers and the beach.

Much love from the Sortinos