Outside the bubble

So two months in and I’ve come to the conclusion that to accomplish certain tasks it’s best to psyche yourself up, just like you might before speaking in front of a crowd or taking the field for a big game. If you don’t adopt a “can do” attitude and also patience, not only will the task at hand be more challenging, but you might be tempted to throw in the towel. Here are a couple examples. 

Friends wanted to show us the fabric market, made up of a bunch of fabric shops with every kind of fabric you can imagine. You can have anything tailor made for you on the spot – clothing, blankets, curtains, etc. Seamstresses sit on their sewing machines outside their shops. We have a window seat in our bedroom that could use a cushion and I figured why not just get one made at the market? Easy enough, right? Well that was my first mistake, thinking it’d be that easy, but my second was not mentally preparing for what of course would be an involved undertaking. Communicating the fabric size needed and the type of stuffing/cushion, how I wanted it sewed, finding a seamstress who would do it quickly and who also had the patience to go back and forth on a translator, quickly became frustrating tasks. I bought fabric, and then after a couple interactions I jumped ship. I didn’t have the energy or the mindset to get it done. 

Here’s the triumphant example. Julia’s school told us she needed to get a physical exam, as is required of all their students. UGH. I put it off for a few days, to build some mental stamina, and asked another mom how the experience went for her and if she had any tips. So armed with at least a rough idea of what to expect and the right frame of mind, we went on our way. I was determined to get it done, knowing that it would not go exactly as planned, it would take a long time and well, it would kind of suck. It was all of those things. It took over 3.5 hours, the process was confusing, there were multiple trips up and down 4 floors with elevator lines too long to bother with, a misunderstanding when a nurse insisted we missed a step, all in a very crowded children’s hospital that didn’t have the white washed walls and sterile feel I’m used to, where no one spoke English. But the point is, we did it!

This notable hospital experience reminded me of the best piece of advice we got before moving here from a fellow Vermonter turned expat in China, which was to have an open mind. The best piece of advice I’ve gotten since coming is to embrace life here. It’s possible to live in a bubble, and go to Western stores, seek out Western foods, and surround yourself with people also content to live in that bubble. It’s also easy to get annoyed, complain, and judge. Lack of understanding and fear of the unknown, in a place that’s so different and difficult to navigate, encourage isolation and can also fuel discontent. I’m certainly guilty of being aggravated nonstop some days. Like when I’ve had enough of the attention Julia is getting, when I cringe at the sound of someone spitting on the sidewalk or when I’m tempted to yell at a crazy scooter driver. (Yes, I’m ashamed to admit that visibly bitter foreigner making her way hastily down the street still surfaces on occasion.) There are plenty of things I dislike about life here, and of course we get our Western fixes on a weekly basis, but on the flip side there are things I do like, one of the biggest being the chance to experience this fascinating place, learn and at least attempt to gain a better understanding of the culture.

We experienced our first national holiday with the Mid-Autumn festival a week ago. It’s a harvest festival celebrated during the full moon, and a time when families come together to eat and celebrate. Julia is pictured above playing Bo Bing a dice game with prizes that’s popular in Xiamen – even a lot of the stores and cafes have sets for customers to play. She’s also making mooncakes for the holiday with her classmates. They are round pastries filled with lotus seed pasted or bean paste. The next holiday is National Day Golden Week, the first week in October.

Gabe was popular with the neighborhood kids, blowing bubbles after work one night. You’ll notice Julia couldn’t be bothered. In reality, she was likely beelining it for the little kid ride thing she’s mildly obsessed with. The area around our building is buzzing with people and families at night. Kids on bikes and people shopping. Children go to bed late here. 

We went out for “Chinese BBQ” pictured on the right. It was a random assortment of meats and vegetables on skewers. The round thing is lotus root, which is very popular here. This was also one of the few times we’ve had local seafood. I could have done without the BBQ, but the clams and shrimp were really good.

A local neighborhood alleyway with food stands and a couple shops crammed with random stuff (all made in China of course). Many kids and their parents were walking home from an elementary school nearby. 

A view of our “neighborhood” from the other side of Yundang Lake during a weekend jog. Our building is in front of the golf ball looking weather tower.

Cat street in the Shapowei Art District. An area that had been our list explore. It’s a funky area, with a questionable cat cafe, close to Xiamen University, a famous university and one of the best in the country. Also found an actual brewery nearby. The beer didn’t compare to Vermont’s finest, but it was decent.

Here’s a shot of Bangkok. Gabe was there for a training this weekend.

And here is Julia being silly Julia.

The Push-Pull

I had been meaning to write a post for awhile but felt like I didn’t have much to say. I realized it’s because we’ve fallen into our weekly routine- it’s amazing how quickly a foreign place can start to feel like your new normal and also how quickly you can go from actively observing or reflecting on the details of your days to just going about them. It’s like we’ve transitioned from a crazy trip and are now home (I use this term loosely). 

Our days are now scheduled, and even more so starting this past week as Julia began Chinese school in the mornings. Gabe leaves to catch the bus to work around 7, Julia and I walk to school at 8:30, I run errands or come home or go to a coffee shop to do work, pick up Julia at 11:15, eat lunch, then its nap time and more work/cleaning/etc, play, go to the store for dinner (if we’re cooking that night), Gabe comes home, dinner, bath time, bed, wake up and do it again. Of course there’s some variation in there, video calls with family, coffee or a walk with fellow expats (incredibly helpful and welcoming women from all over), dinner out with friends or ordering in from one of the hundreds of restaurants on our convenient food delivery phone app (although if we try somewhere new we have to order food based on tiny little thumbnail photos. It can be a bit of a crapshoot.) On many levels I welcome the routine as it feels good to be settled in this way, but when you’re in it so to speak, it’s easy to forget to stop and smell the roses. This blog has a been a good reminder to do just that.

Nothing screams routine like laundry. Julia likes to help, I swear. We don’t have a dryer so we dry everything on our balcony. 

Julia’s first week at a part time Chinese Montessori school. One staff person speaks some English. So far she loves it. There are four kids in Julia’s class – Sofia who is Iranian and Portuguese, Elijah who is Japanese and Tanta who is Russian – all in Chinese class. Best of luck to the teacher. 

A few photos of Gabe’s school. It’s quite the campus. They had an open house and picnic this weekend for parents, students, and teachers.

There’s this interesting push-pull or dichotomy that creeps into life here, where one minute I want something familiar and the next I’m curious and itching for the next new sight, food, or experience. The craving might come after a few failed attempts to communicate or when the heat gets to be too much, or when I’ve spent the day without in-person adult interaction (in English). Thankfully emails, messages and phone calls with loved ones back home, Western foods and some time spent with new friends are quick to satisfy. I can’t even begin to tell you how happy I was to visit a French bakery or how good a can of tuna tasted last week or how much we looked forward to our trip to Sam’s Club Sunday (it was the anticipation really, what culinary favorite from back home might we find? There weren’t as many as we hoped but a massive container of mixed nuts and frozen sockeye salmon were notable finds).  

Julia was also psyched to be at Sam’s Club.
French bakery on “bar street” in the Marco Polo (expat) neighborhood. There’s bar street, which is lined mostly with, you guessed it, bars, and also cafe street with coffee shops, though I have yet to find one, other than Starbucks, that actually opens early. A lot of things here open late I’ve noticed, and also stay open late.

On the flip side, there’s so much that we want to see and explore in the city, and each new experience or pleasant interaction (involving more than my pathetic repertoire of ok, hello, goodbye, thank you, and I don’t speak Chinese) is energizing and sometimes even reinvigorating, especially if it comes in a moment of frustration or exhaustion.  For example, the very sweet young woman who spoke just enough English to help me track down a taxi at 9 pm that was delivering a pressure cooker and salad spinner I bought from someone in a WeChat used goods group. I realize there’s a lot to unpack in that sentence. Or our first trip to the beach with the new teachers and families with whom we are forever bonded after our first week in China. Or venturing to the tiny, very local noodle shop that we’ve been hesitant to step foot in with our friend Wenhao from the convenience store. Or exploring a different part of the city or checking out a new park. And of course there’s always food. We love food.

There are a lot of these ups and much more to see and do, with I’m sure many stops along the way to satisfy those cravings for home.

Noodles from the shop below our place. That’s a bean sauce on top. There are dry noodles, like this, and wet noodles, served in a broth.
Street view from our walk in a new area of the city just south of us.

For a Chinese city of 3.5 plus million people, Xiamen has some nice green spaces and we’ve barely scratched the service. Huweishan Park’s perfectly manicured paths behind our apartment are a quiet refuge in the mornings, though there are some “regulars” playing badminton, doing tai chi and having tea. And Haiwan Park with its endless palm trees is close by and a nice place to walk. 

Baozi (steamed buns that I love) for breakfast – made of soft, light and fluffy dough and filled with sweet tangy pork filling that’s somewhat reminiscent of BBQ. It takes a lot of willpower to not pop into the tiny shop that’s a one minute walk from home every morning to pick up a couple of these 30 cent morsels of goodness. 
Sunset shot from our balcony.

And lastly a big HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my brother Chris and also this…